….I am addicted to making bags and lately I have discovered my love for faux leather and decorator fabrics!
Like you, I was always afraid to sewing with faux leather & vinyls…I figured it had to be difficult! Then one day, my favorite fabric shop had a piece of faux leather in the “rest” bin for super cheap…so I snatched it up and figured I’d give it a try. To my surprise I had no problem sewing it…and the addiction began!
Here are a few things you will need :
- Faux Leather
- Teflon foot
- Schmetz Universal #90/14 ( or #100/ 16) needles (I don’t use a leather needle..I find it makes to big of holes)
- Masking tape (cheaper the better..we don’t want it to stick super good)
- Clover clips or binder clips
- Weights to hold your pattern down..tuna cans work also
- Rotary cutter with a fresh blade…you want clean sharp cuts
- Threads…thicker threads than you would normally use….here in Germany I use a #50 weight Polyester threads….you can sew with normal threads but I find the thicker ones make a lovely topstitching.
Faux leathers are not all the same…some will sew wonderfully even with your normal sewing foot…most will require a teflon foot ( I recommend investing in one…you will save yourself a lot of headaches) I also have a roller foot but I rarely use it …go for the teflon one!
Faux leather …come in all kinds of colors, prints & thicknesses.
How do you decide which will work the best?? Trial & error!
It does not have to be the most expensive. I have had great results with a rather inexpensive faux leather that is used for the interior of cars.
Here are some examples …I also tried showing the backside of the faux leather since they are also differnt.
The inexpensive faux leathers have a texture and a thin mesh backing….these are great for beginners…
To show you what I mean… I stitched these samples, first with a 4.0 stitch length and it had a hard time moving the pleather causing a smaller stitch …it also curled the pieces…then I lengthened the stitch length to 5.0, it was better but I would avoid using this kinds for faux leathers for beginners.
If you really have to have one of those “headache ” kind of faux leather…try topstitching it through a piece of wax paper.
Enough theory…lets get sewing …
Always press your faux leather from the backside….I have been know to iron from the front with a pressing cloth ( an old tea towel) but I wouldn’t recommend this for the weak at heart!
Place you pattern on the back side to the faux leather …use the weights or the masking tape to hold your pattern in place. You will notice that I have printed the pattern piece out a couple times and taped it together so that I have full piece …no cutting faux leather on the fold!
Cut the pieces out with a rotary cutter…you can cut through the masking tape…
Pin your pieces together with the clover clips. Never ever use pins to hold your pieces together. Holes are not faux leathers friend.
*Use the same thread in the top and bobbin….
Set your stitch length to at least 3.5 or 4.0 (topstitching I’ll use 4.5)…a longer stitch looks better on faux leather .
Do not back-stitch when sewing faux leather…leave long threads at the beginning and the end…tie them off and then bury the threads between the layers.
If you do get wobbly stitches…just make the bag a tiny bit smaller..thats what I do!…I hope I took some of the fear out of faux leather ??
P.S: In case your wondering how I store my faux leathers…. on rolls of course…it prevents creases….the shops will gladly give you their empty rolls….just ask !
I am vegan, so I really appreciate this! Thank you!
Glad I could help save a few animals 🙂
Hey Steph, just so you’re aware (I want you to be able to stay true to your lifestyle), not all “fake” leathers are “vegan”/”vegetarian”. Certain car leathers, and other leathers are actually made up of real leather trimmings that get sort of mashed up and re rolled out into an even sheet (think of how paper is made with the fibers of wood pulp all mushed out into a flat sheet)…
so even though it’s “fake” leather, it’s still containing animal skins.
That is true..so I really make sure. Some PU leathers in particular. There arextwo kinds… faux and PU (also called vegan leather, although this is misleading). There is a difference between PU leather and faux leather….in the material it is made up of. The faux leather is safe but the PU leather could sometimes contain animal hide. I always ask.
I am Fleischfresser and love my Schnitzels and BBQ with the beer and wine. Yet I sew with the faux leather, because I don’t have to kill Elephant or Crocodile for a stupid bag.
Thanks for the tutorial. Would be nice if you could write about how to finish edges with the faux leather. I mean, if you cut a piece and it supposed to be a bag cover, what ideas how to finish edges? Yeah, you can JUST leave them, but then you will see that fabric underneath and it is ugly. One can bend and top-stitch, also the way. Anything else?
This is fantastic, so many excellent tips, thank you so much !
your very welcome 🙂
Oh I wish I could sew with faux,… I don’t know wtf I’m doing so I found this great post. Still, I feel this project of mine would be better suited for a peep like yourself. You do any custom work? I am attempting to make bolster pillows that match my new faux leather couch… PLEASE HELP!
That was pro* (not peep,… lol) but I guess that works too.
Thanks for the great info!! Just yesterday, I completed a very simple tote bag using faux leather–my first time!! It was easier than expected, but I was also using the easiest type of faux leather fabric (a good choice on my part). Much of this information would have been so helpful yesterday, but it will definitely enhance my future projects. Your bags are beautiful!! And thanks Sara. . .keep this great information coming!
That’s the story of my life Jane…A day late and a dollar short!! LOL but I am glad you jumped in and tried.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve been playing around a bit with fake leather and real deerskin too (adding strips here and there to bags). This lesson puts a bit more confidence in me!
Glad to hear that Kim…keep at it! It won’t be long before you make your first bag !!
Great information. Will keep it handy for when I get brave enough. Thanks Liz.
Your brave enough now Norma…there is nothing to be afraid of…its just a little piece of fabric and if it doesn’t work out toss it in to the bin…no one will know!! ..it’ll be our secret 🙂
This is amazing! Thank you so much for sharing this fantastic information!
Glad I could help 🙂
Thank you so much! I can see places where the color and texture would be great but have never seen how it was done. I thought trying to use it would be HARD! Have some and am ready to try now! Thank You!
Carolyn, playing with faux leather will open up all kinds of new possibilities for you. The hardest part is the first step..believing you can do it ( that and a teflon foot!! LOL)
I am afraid that I do not know what a teflon foot is ?
I work in miniatures from136th scale to 9th scale so things are not so easy. I also when I can find it l use faux leather. This was fascinating, thank you, even if I am not bag lady 🙂
Inspira makes an iron on stabilizer for leathers and pleathers. I find it works well. I do say everyone needs a teflon foot. It’s also good for lycras and embellished fabrics.
I agree…a teflon foot is a must! ..I wouldn’t be without it!
A walking foot works great for leathers, faux and real, as well!
Your right D’anna…i forget to mention that since the walking foot is built in my machine..so its always on 🙂
Thx for this tip. Was researching stabilizers for leather. Can this be bought at any craft supplier? Wanting to make leather bags.
Hope Liz will be responding – where in Germany do you buy faux leather (or fabric in general)?
Carmit..I tried to post the info here but I guess I can’t post links in comments. Please write me personally and I will try and help 🙂
Looks like my comment came thru…see below
Hi Carmit 🙂 not sure where in Germany you are ( I am not far from Darmstadt) so the places I get my faux leather may not be convenient for you …I buy from a fabric warehouse in Mörfelden, I go to the Stoff und Tuck markt twice a year when it comes to town..you can find their calendar here-
http://www.expo-concept.de/stoffmaerkte/termine/index.html …I have also gotten pieces from Buttinette ( when they had it on sale) a new fabric shop came into my town and I just picked up a few piece to experiment withhttps://www.alfatex.de …great prices!
The inexpensive ones I got at Fortis Polster http://fortispolster.de/category/polsterstoffe-kunstleder …I get my headliner from them also ..I use the 5 mm one and like it http://fortispolster.de/kaschierter-schaumstoff-mit-jersey-stoff-lamieniert-p114-5mm.html
I hope I haven’t overloaded you with info …if you have any other questions feel free to write me personally
Wow! I am glad I stumbled upon this topic. Thanks, Liz and Sara. I just finished a baby quilt with a few strips of pleather for textural interest. Your cutting tips are good. And, the wax paper will help on the underside, if there is drag on the feed plate. Also I will try the stabilizer from Inspira. The very soft pleather can stretch and might need some help holding it’s shape. My little joke, I always pronounce faux “fox.” Great blog, thanks.
Thanks Jane! Glad we could help …I also pronounce it “fox” 😉
Thank you for posting this..ugh I was backstitching..not anymore! I also didn’t know the difference in the backings, really helpful information!!!
Melinda…sometimes I forget and backstitch also, especially when piecing the bag together but I try to not to it and to tie & bury my threads where it will be seen…by topstitching !! It makes a huge difference.
good info! Not sure what you mean by “fluffy” however…
Kathy…if you look at different faux leathers you will notice the different backings. Some have a fabric backing, some have a mess and some have a thick felt / fleece like backing…fluffy!… not smooth !
I am not sure how else to describe it 🙂 when you check out the faux leathers you’ll see what i mean 🙂
thank you so much for all your tips! I just sewed with faux leather yesterday and I didn’t see your post till after! Now I know why the leather needle doesn’t work 🙂
Christina…I know a lot of sewers that love leather needles…I personally don’t or should I say my machine doesn’t. 🙂
I find things like needles & threads a very personal choice…what works for one machine doesn’t for an other…trial / error. I just tried to share some of the things I found that worked for me and o take the fear out of sewing with faux leather 🙂
Great post! Very timely too – my first small order of faux leather arrived yesterday. I’ll come back to this post this weekend and figure out which of the types I ordered.
I hope it helps you Jackie…and if you have any questions feel free to ask 🙂
This answered so many of my questions! Thanks for a fabulous post! Can’t wait to sew a faux leather tote or just embellish a smaller bag for my first project!
Thank you for the ironing tip…
I had no problem with sewing two layers. However, when I needed to sew the strap to the ring, it would not sew through the four layers. Any suggestions?
Katherine you are not alone with this problem. Most home sewing machines can’t handle the thickness. When I know it is going be to thick, I will opt to make my handles & tabs using this method ( it reduced the bulk )http://liz-moments.blogspot.de/2014/12/faux-leather-handles-2.html or you have to attach the handles using rivets ….http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/2011/03/how-to-install-rivets.html
** try using a #100 or #120 needle and hand walking your machine over that area..
Thanks for all the great info. I’ve been sewing for a few years, but my next/current project is my first with faux leather. I’ll be making a zippered case for my knitting needles. I want it to be sturdy, so I decided to try leather.
Hello. Lovely explanation on how to sew on faux leather. I started working on the third type of faux leather (The cheap one) I used stitch length 4, and tension varied and I tried everythin, but the stitches on the back side comes out a bit loose. What I should I do for that. I tried even using 100 and 90 size needle, still ends up like dat. Any advice.?
Thanks in advance,
Salma
made-in-craftadise.blogspot.in
Are you using the same thread in top & bottom ( my machine doesn’t like it is I use 2 different kinds)
First thing…rethread your top thread & bobbin…take both threads totally out & rethread them. Believe it or not most problems are solved by this .
I’ll be sewing along nicely & then my machine will go crazy…somehow the thread came out of a disk or something ??? I will never understand it …& I have learned not to try and cheat and only rethread the last part…I rethread it all. ( she knows when you cheating & will complain! LOL)
Your stitch length is right, so is your needle sizes ( they are new needles?? Not that they have a burr on them or are dull ) ..second most common problem.
I would first try stitching on normal cotton (after rethreading your machine & putting in new needle) …if your stitching is fine then your machine doesn’t like the faux leather…LOL
Actually it could be that it doesn’t like the thread. I have discovered that my machine will sew with almost any thread …but when I go to topstitch with certain threads…she will complain, ( break , knot, skip stitches) …I have learned that she prefers a thinker thread for top stitching ( Diva!!)
If it is still not right & you have to adjust your tension ( which I hate doing ) …since your bobbin thread is loose…..you have to tighten the upper tension.
Here is a good link I found about tensions which might help you further ??
http://ohyoucraftygal.blogspot.de/2013/10/sewing-lesson-10-how-to-fix-tension-on.html
I always passed over the faux leather in the clearance bin, but after reading your great information about sewing with it, I will definitely be picking a piece up and giving it a try, preferably for the bottom of a tote or zippered case.
Thanks again Liz, and Sara!
I’m planning my first bag using faux leather and this tutorial was very helpful. Thank You!
We (my granddaughter and I) started on a faux leather bag for her; everything is going fine until we came to the tabs to hold the D-rings onto the front of the bag, now we are trying to sew thru multiple layers of the leather – is there an easier way to do this?
i just made a ttote with faux leather trim, and today I started on a faux leather jacket. Your blog really helped out, including your tutorial for purse handles.
Very helpful!
Thank you so much for this post, it’s given me the confidence to go out and try my next bag as a faux leather one. Super excited now 😀
This is great info. I am wondering how do I make bias tape out of Faux Leather or can I just cut it in strips as it has no grain? Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! I am someone who jumps first think later. Got some faux leather, the rubbery kind, and am all the way to sewing the last stitches and I’m almost crying with frustration! I had to trail and errr to get masking tape. But the wax paper is the tip I needed! Going to try it later!
Great tutorial. I’m just starting to use faux leather and vinyl and once the fear subsided, I actually love working with it. I hadn’t thought about using masking tape, but a great idea. Can you share some of your sources you buy from? Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Hi, I’m new to sewing but ready to take on the challenge! Your page contains such wonderful information and examples…any chance you would share your favorite brand of faux leather? I know you recommend the medium thick faux with fabric backing, but there are so many kinds, and I’m worried about quality. I have purchased items (purses) made from faux leather, and some quickly deteriorated and flaked, causing me to simply throw them away-a waste of money and not good for the environment. If I plan on making products to share with others (and potentially sell) I want to use quality materials that will last. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. Thank you!
I have tried sewing faux leather before, but I haven’t had much luck with it. A few years ago I tried it for the first and last time, I tried a few different fabrics I bought from two different fabric shops, but I always had the same issue: they tore clean right at the seam. At first I tried stitching the fabric on its own, and it didn’t seem to have any problems (the sample stitch anyway), but as soon as I made an extended seam, that’s when things went wrong. I made a jacket and a small purse, each from different fabrics, and they all tore from the seam. A clean cut, as if made with a razorblade. I checked with a different sewing machine as well, same result… Do you have any suggestions? I am reluctant to check more fabrics, since there are very few options here, and all seem to be the same quality, and I wouldn’t like to spend money on a potential failure… could it be the fabric, or the sewing machine? The fabrics I found and used were all rather thin, with a mesh back (like the inexpensive ones you showed above, but i wouldn’t call them inexpensive at all).
Any help and tips will be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time!
Use larger stitches
This is fantastic, so many excellent tips, I will try to make one for my daughter! Thanks for sharing.
Would you use an interfacer at all?
I so wish I had read this before trying my first bag with faux leather. I ordered it online from a reputable site and thought it was decent stuff but when sewing it I found it scuffed the exterior really badly in some areas. I was using my roller foot. I don’t know if that was the problem or if it is the rubbery faux leather you mentioned.
I didn’t have a teflon foot but have read you can put scotch tape in the bottom of a normal foot to help it glide.I will try that next time or my walking foot. I did find I needed to lengthen the stitches. I had a hard time top stitching on it. So was not completely happy with my first attempt. I had embroidered the purse flap with a light machine embroidered design. That worked out great! So I guess I will have to redo it.
Hi Brenda! Is it perhaps the feed dogs tearing up the faux leather, or is it something else?
I think it was the feed dogs.
Hi Bo! Tandy Leather makes a product called Edge Coat that you can use to coat the raw edges.
Hi, I checked the cost for the Edge kote on Tandy leather. The cost for it especially for the shipping cost is so expensive. Pls do you know of any other brand that is cheaper
Thanks for the leather tips in Sew Sweetness 12/2/14. I have a question about making welting with faux leather. My faux leather does not seem to stretch on the bias. Can I make my piping on the grain? or do I need a special product? I am working on an office chair seat with a woven seat and fake leather around the sides with piping. Should I cut all on the bias?? Thanks.
HI Elizabeth, thanks for your comment! I have used faux leather for piping before (it did not stretch) when I made a Polaris Bag. I did not cut it on the bias since the fabric did not stretch in any direction. Hope this helps!
Hi! I just found your site and I’m so excited! I’ve been designing a bag (pretty much just mentally…haven’t drawn it out or anything) for a couple months, and it’s “pleather” or something…the sticky faux leather. Not by me wanting that fabric specifically, but because I’m on a mad budget and I found it in a clearanced remnants cart.
Anyway, I’ve been working to get everything I need to make it, lining, zippers, accessories, etc: today I was planning to go get a leather needle and proper thread but thankfully I came across this, nearly 3y/o post….Shout Out if you’re reading this in October of 2017!!
Thank you so much for the tips and tricks…I’ve been messing around with a scrap and trying to make it look nice. Hopefully some of these tips will make for a good experence!!
So happy it was helpful!
Thanks for the helpful hints. But what about interfacing the bag? Can you iron fusible interfacing on the back of faux leather just like you do on fabric? I want to use the leather as a bottom border and it definitely will need some strength there.
Hi Karen! I personally usually use the interfacing as called for in the pattern (I don’t use interfacing for straps or accents though). If you are careful you can iron the back of faux leather although I would suggest testing on a small scrap first.
How do you finish edges of faux leather if you are making straps or harnesses? I tried pressing the seam allowance under, but it didn’t stick. I’m also having trouble with the feed dogs digging into my leather. Does that mean I just picked a bad fabric or is there something I should do to the machine to change it? I’m using a Juki industrial machine. Any advice would help!!! Thank you so much!!!!!
Hi Jordan! You can either adjust the tension or use a tear-away stabilizer underneath so that the feed dogs can tear up the leather. You can leave cut edges raw (or Tandy Leather makes a product called Edge Cote). Hope this helps!
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Thank you for a great explanation. I was looking online for a similar idea and really appreciate it
Glad it was helpful Aimee!
Thank you so much. Yes, you are correct re the leather needle. I tried that and, indeed, it does make bigger holes. I have been using normal threads, but will take your advice and try thicker ones. Your tips are greatly appreciated.
Taz.
May I please have an invitation to read your blog? Google will not allow me to read it otherwise.
Hi: this is my second attempt at sewing purses with faux leather. I even bought a Janome machine which claims to be extra good with leather, denim, etc. But I am so frustrated! I am trying to incorporate some straps of faux leather into the side seams of the purse body, using upholstery thread and a “for leather” needle, and it keeps bunching up under the project and freezing up my needle so that I can neither sew or remove the project from the machine! What am I doing wrong. (Note: total layers of faux leather is 5)
Hi Christi! Perhaps try a thinner thread rather than an upholstery thread – I suggest trying a 40wt thread with a 90/14 Schmetz microtex needle. If the issue is rather that all of the layers are too thick for your machine, you may decide to either reduce the strap layers or secure the current number of layers with a rivet to the exterior of the bag instead. Hope this helps!
any shops where you can recommended get faux leather?
ps. strechy or not strechy if you remember in this this violet faux leather?
Hello there! We have some non-stretchy faux leather available on our website here: https://sewsweetness.com/product-category/fabric/leather Thank you!
Thank you for all the great tips! I started working with leather/faux leather a couple months ago and I noticed about half the patterns designed for these materials have the raw edge showing at one point or another. While leaving the raw edge showing with genuine leather seems rather reasonable, I have yet to feel comfortable to do that with faux leather and end up avoiding making the projects I really want to because of this. I was hoping you can tell me if, I’m fact, it is ok to leave the raw edges of faux leather showing in a design like you do in the photos above with the red leather and yellow zipper or if that only works for a certain type or faux leather? This is a questions I’ve looked everywhere for the answer to but haven’t have any luck finding, your advice would mean the world! Thank you!
Hi AJ! You can leave it raw. If you’re not comfortable doing that, you can paint the edges with Edge Kote (it comes in different colors, etc.). You can watch my video about using Edge Kote here: https://sewsweetness.com/2019/02/video-how-to-use-edge-kote-to-finish-raw-edges-of-cork-leather-or-vinyl-fabric.html?v=7516fd43adaa
I am about to make a faux leather fashion coat for my 1:3 scale doll. These tips are great and hoping I can complete it without messing the entire thing up .
Love your bags too ❤️
Cheers from Australia
Hi! Was wondering what you can do to “skive” the faux leather. Mine has a fabric backing and seems rather thick when folded over. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi Samantha! If you are working with a thicker vinyl, for straps you might consider have 2 or 3 layers for your straps instead of folding like double-fold bias tape (4 layers). For 2 layers, you can just fold wrong sides together in half (cutting the fabric 2x the width of the finished strap). For 3 layers, you would just fold in thirds. If your backing fabric is white fuzzy fleece, you may instead want to fold each long edge toward the center instead (to minimize the white part showing).
Which weight and quality is Marine Vinyl? I have seen some cute pouches made with it.
Also what is everyone’s favorite bag to make in vinyl? Or with partial vinyl?
Hi Brenda Sue! Thank you for your questions. I’ve added them to my list for my Sewcial Sunday live show on March 3rd at 7pm CT!
LOL!!! I haven’t been called Brenda Sue since my Grandparents died. They lived in the country. Auto fill put my middle name for some reason. Thanks for the memories! I will watch on March 3rd to see what you say!!!!