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Pellon Interfacing
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Vilene Conversion
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987F Fusible Fleece
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H630 Iron On Lightweight Fleece
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TP971F Fusible Thermolam
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H640 Iron On High Loft Fleece or 272 Thermolam
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SF-101 Shape Flex Fusible Woven
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G700 Woven Fusible
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520 Deco-Fuse Firm
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S520 Firm Interlining
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70 Peltex Sew-in
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S80 Heavy Sew-in
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71F Peltex Single-sided Fusible
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S520 Firm Iron-on
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809 Decor Bond
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H250 Iron-on
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I assembled this chart with the help of the lovely folks at Pellon.
Edit 10/01/14 – Pellon is now widely available in Australia under the Legacy brand. Many of the names and item numbers are the same, with one small change (for example, Fusible Fleece under the Legacy brand has number L-987F, so basically they are just adding an ‘L’ in front of the original Pellon number). The main change is that Decor Bond under the Legacy brand is L-809 Fuse-N-Shade).
So let’s get started! Note: always use a pressing cloth when fusing your interfacing to fabric! Pellon interfacing is also available in boxes of product, usually around 2-3 yards per box. You can see examples of boxed interfacing in my photo above; most specialty quilt shops will stock the packaged interfacing!
Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece can be found by-the-yard at your local fabric store packaged on a bolt with a pale green label on it. It is fusible on one side, which means you can feel the ‘glue’ on one side, and this is the side that should go against the wrong side of your fabric. This interfacing has a bit of a loft to it. I like using it, but usually reserve it for either the lining of a bag (to add extra body), for straps (so that they are padded, but without any extra bulk), for small flaps, etc. I don’t often use it for the exterior of a bag because I have found that over a large area, it can possibly make the fabric look slightly crinkly because of the loft of the fleece.
One way that you can smooth out your fabric when using fusible fleece is to first fuse a layer of Shape Flex (which I’ll talk about later) to the fabric, then follow it with a layer of fusible fleece.
Another great use for fusible fleece is that you can cut small squares of it (approximately 2″ x 2″) to reinforce a magnetic snap that you might be using in your bag. Every time you open and close a magnetic snap, it puts pressure on your fabric. To resist against everyday wear-and-tear, slide the prongs of your snap through your fabric, and then put the square of fleece on top before you close the prongs. You shouldn’t have any worries about your fabric tearing under the strain of the magnetic snap now!
Pellon TP971F Fusible Thermolam
I absolutely love Thermolam. It also comes on a bolt with a light green label on it. It is also fusible on one side, so the tacky side should go against the wrong side of the fabric. Thermolam is fleece, but it is a needled fleece, which means it is denser and lies flat. It has a ton of uses. If I’m making a smaller quilted project like a mini quilt, mug rug, or oven mitts, I use Thermolam before I quilt the project. It eliminates the need for using pins or spray baster.
But this article is for bag-making. When I’m making a bag or other accessory, I like it to have body. Even if I was making a simple tote bag, I would not be happy if it was just 2 layers of fabric. Just too thin for me. I know it boils down to personal preference, but if I make a bag, I want it to be able to carry 20lb. without tearing at the bottom. It needs to feel like it has some substance to it.
So, if I am making a soft bag, I always always use Thermolam. I would, say, use the Thermolam fused to the exterior fabric of the bag, and possibly either Shape Flex or fusible fleece fused to the lining fabric of the bag. Thermolam, once fused, will make your fabric look nice and smooth. Depending on your iron, you might need to fuse it for a little bit longer than the manufacturer instructions (I’d suggest testing on a small piece first if you’ve never used it before). I find I sometimes need to iron it up to double the time as directed. Another personal tip is that I like to iron it (misting with a bit of water) with the interfacing side toward my iron, and when I’m sure it’s properly fused, I like to flip it over and iron on top of the fabric (with my pressing cloth in place, of course!). This will give your fabric an incredibly flat and smooth look.
Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex Fusible Woven
I use this in 100% of my bags. I might use it in different ways, but bar none, it is the most important interfacing in my stash. I fuse Shape Flex to every single pocket that I make. I fuse it to facings in garments. I for sure fuse it to an area around a zipper to help reinforce that area. You can find this interfacing in your local shop with a light purple label on the bolt.
Shape Flex will make a quilt-weight cotton have the feel, once fused, of a decor-weight or canvas-weight fabric. It will give the fabric a bit of sturdiness. As with the previous interfacings, the rough tacky side should go against the wrong side of your fabric before ironing. It is perfect as a stand-alone interfacing if you are making a small pouch or other smaller accessory. You can even combine it with other interfacings. Someone asked me the other day what is the most interfacing I have used on one piece of fabric, and the answer is 3. I like to experiment a lot, and there is no right or wrong answer. I might use a layer of Shape Flex, one of Thermolam, and another of 520. I get a little crazy sometimes.
520 Deco-Fuse Firm
Although this interfacing is great, it is not widely available (I believe you can get it at Hancocks and on their site on-line). If you are looking to make a very stiff bag, then this is the interfacing for you. Even though it is very stiff, it is about as thick as a piece of construction paper, which makes it reasonably easy to sew. Another good thing about this interfacing is that once it is fused, it never has that ‘fused’ look. So your fabric will look nice and smooth. It also holds a finger press, so I usually never have to iron any seams, I just use my fingers.
As with any stiff interfacing, it can be tricky to maneuver your bag through your sewing machine. I would strongly suggest cutting this interfacing 1/2″ smaller than your fabric pieces, in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance. I say sew slowly, and come up with creative ways to get the stitching done. For instance, if you have to sew half a line of stitching, stop, feed the bag in from the opposite side to continue stitching, do that. Honestly, no one is going to see the wrong side of your bag, so it doesn’t have to be the prettiest stitching in the world (in my opinion).
520 Deco-Fuse is a great way to get a store-bought look to your bags. However, I think that Peltex #70 sew-in interfacing is a perfect substitute (see below).
Peltex 70 Sew-in
This interfacing is a little bit thicker than the 520 Deco-Fuse, and it is stiff as well. It comes on a bolt with a yellow label. Because it is a sew-in interfacing, it will not fuse to your fabric. You can either baste the interfacing to your fabric using a small seam allowance, OR (and this is my favorite method)…you can cut a piece of Shape Flex that is the same size as your pattern piece. Then cut a piece of Peltex sew-in from your pattern piece, but trim it 1/2″ smaller all the way around. Center the Peltex sew-in on the wrong side of your fabric, then place the fusible side of your Shape Flex on top. When you fuse the Shape Flex, it will seal the Peltex sew-in along the 1/2″ edges against your fabric. Having a smaller piece of Peltex sew-in will also help to reduce the bulk in your seam allowance.
The bottom of my Aeroplane Bags sewing pattern, pictured above, has Peltex in it (the small printed panel on the bottom of the bag). Since the bag was designed to carry a weekend’s worth of clothing or a featherweight sewing machine, I thought it was a necessity to have the bottom panel be extra-strong.
Another great reason to have some Peltex #70 around is for bag handle inserts. Some sewing patterns for bags call for you to create sort of a double-bias piece for each handle, meaning that your raw edges would not be exposed. I cut a strip of 1-1/2″ wide Peltex #70 for each of the handles in the bag below, and slide them into each handle piece before topstitching along each long edge. It makes the handles very stable. I’ve also used fusible fleece and Thermolam as handle inserts before. I suppose it just depends on what look you’re going for, but any will work.
Peltex 71 Single-sided Fusible
This interfacing is great when you want to fuse a small area of a project (such as the flap of a bag or clutch), but I find that sometimes when you are using it on a larger area of a project (for example, the exterior of a bag), it *can* give the fabric a ‘fused’ (aka crinkly) look.
It is a stiff interfacing like the Peltex Sew-in and the 520 Deco-Fuse. If you need a heavy/stiff interfacing that you’d like to fuse, I’d recommend the Peltex Sew-in.
809 Decor Bond
By Annie’s Soft and Stable
Also, another favorite interfacing that I started using in 2013 and use in just about every bag is By Annie’s Soft and Stable. It is my heavy favorite, and if you notice the bag patterns in my shop, you’ll see that they were all made using Soft and Stable. I invite you to read my separate blog post about Soft and Stable, and check out the video that I shot:
Many sewing patterns only name interfacing in generic terms: light-midweight interfacing, heavyweight interfacing, etc. That can make it sort of difficult to navigate. To generalize, I would say, in my opinion, that for a light-midweight notation, you can use Shape Flex, fusible fleece, or Thermolam. Heavyweight or stiff interfacing would be either of the Peltex or the Pellon 520 (possibly 2 layers of Decor Bond). Again, others might have different opinions on this.
I have washed bags made out of just about every interfacing. You can do it, some just look a bit more wrinkly than others (bring out the iron!). I’m not really a big fan of washing my bags, though, so I wouldn’t do it unless you had some sort of emergency (like grape juice).
Feel free to ask any specific questions about interfacing in the comments! I will answer! If you are working with a certain pattern, feel free to let me know if you’re confused on what interfacing to use, and I’ll be glad to help you navigate the waters!
Thank you SO much for this post, Sara. I just wandered into bag making recently and have been often confused about all these products. You’ve covered it all here – this is wonderful!!
What a very helpful post. I will have to bookmark this for reference. Thank you so much.
Wow this is a great post. I use interfacing for garments but rarily in quilting. I’m gonna print this off and read it more carefully and give them a try. I have used it for a bag once or twice, but it is not something I reach for as a general rule.
thanks for putting the time into this comparisons.
cathy
This is getting top place in my bookmarked folder of Sewing Stuff To KNOW! I hate that there are so many options for interfacing and not knowing what to use, so this definitely helps! I also hate that I don’t live somewhere that I can just go down to the store and look/feel them all, but instead have to make a choice and order it online without really knowing what I’m getting. I think your article will help a lot, so thank you!!
I agree! On the top of my “need to know” . No more guessing. 😀
Thanks Sara for this very informative post. You know I’ve been asking questions which you answered very nicely. I was waiting for this information for very long. I’ll definetly print it. The timing is perfect to get ready for Purse Palooza. I just ordered some interfacing I’ve never used before and will do some experiments. I feel more confident now. Thanks again.
This just got bookmarked. I’m sure I will refer to it often as I always knew to use interfacing, but it does take some know-how or trial and error to get the right one for the job.
Saved this page! Fantastic information! I too have a large stash of interfacing(s) from fusible to sew in- love the stuff – I can’t wait to get started on the Purse I have in mind this coming month! Thanks for the info!
I was asked to purches hand bag interfacing I did it is very stiff she said this should do you the lady said it dose not say for hand bags, have I got the write stuff, Cathy
Wow! So much great information! Thanks!
You’ve answered almost all the questions I’ve had about what interfacing to use when making bags/purses. However, I still have one more. Do you ever use interfacing on the lining fabric of your bag, and if so, which one?
I’m going to print out this post and put in my purse so I’ll always have it handy at the store when I’m trying to decide what interfacing I need to buy. I can never remember the numbers, and the sales associates at the stores never seem to know what kind is best. Thanks for doing all the work for us!
This was great information. I usually use fusible fleece on all my totes and purses and sometimes it didn’t seem to be just what was needed. I will look to see if i can find some of the others that you mentioned . Thanks for helping with this information.
I SO needed this post Sara! I am so interfacing and fusible not-smart, I am bookmarking this for reference for sure ;]
How do you keep all these interfacings organized in your sewing room? Have you made labels for them or just use the running label that is cut with the interfacing?
Thanks for this great, informative post.
thank you so much, this is a great post, very useful, particularly to non-english speaking seamstresses! now i´ll have your post as a reference when trying to get pellon´s (or any other brand, wich is something, btw, difficult to find)interface for my projects!
Thanks for this post! I didn’t know there were stiffer fusibles that didn’t make your fabric look crinkly — once I get through my bolt of sew-in (or am feeling really flush, heh), I’m going to try Decor Bond! Oh, and I like that I got to feel validated in my love for Shape Flex. 😀
Love interfacing! It really is the secret to a nice bag. (I’ve even been known to wander around craft fairs with my mom pointing out the products that would be improved with some interfacing…)
To organize my interfacings I just keep them on the bolt. I don’t necessarily by them by the bolt, but you can find one that’s almost empty and buy what’s on it and ask to keep the cardboard. Then when I buy more of the same I reload it! This also keeps them from getting folded or creased.
Great idea tp store them on the bolt.
love that photo! haha! This is such a great post. I’ve bookmarked it for referencing. I never know what to use if the pattern doesn’t specify.
Wow that’s a great post, and interesting photo you have there :p Made me laugh. This is the most comprehensive and useful post I’ve seen on interfacing to date, and now I feel like I can actually make better choices instead of using my flimsy lightweight fusible garment interfacing for everything I make!
Thanks for the great post! I also love Shape Flex! And you are so right about patters, they are general as they don’t want to promote a product, so this is a GREAT help to know which one to use!! You rock 🙂
Brilliant – thank you!
You weren’t asleep were you – can’t trick me x
ROFL, I particularly like the artfully placed pieces in the pic ;o)
Thanks for all the great info! There are so many kinds of interfacing on the market, it can be pretty confusing.
Hey Sara, I love the blog. I have a question. Do you know which ones are washable? I like to know if my bags are washable before I start, so maybe if its not, I may make a purse that is for special occasions only. You do talk about some interfacings that I have never tried. Thanks for the information. Love all your purses/bags in the article. I’m gathering all the suppiles for your Purse Palooza. This will be fun!
Excellent thank you. The girl at the fabric store looked at me funny when I asked about peltex (Canada)…I brought home some super heavy fusible that was quite pricy, so I’ll see how it works. I’d love to see a list of online shops that sell the inter facings you discussed.
THANK YOU for this most informative post! I was able to find Shape Flex at my local fabric store. 🙂
This post really helps me… I used a lot of interfacing. THANK YOU for sharing!!
Oh my… I never knew… Next time I have a question I know where to look 😉
Sara, This was so awesome and SO HELPFUL!! Thank you for taking the time to write all that out. I’m Pinning this as a permanent reference!
Thanks for the comprehensive list! Now I know where to turn for all my interfacing needs! 🙂 also you answered my question about why my pretty pleats tote has a bit of an “interfaced” look… I need the pressing cloth and I should have gone with the other interfacing.
I was really surprised at how many things I’d done before that you’d mentioned– like interfacing Warm & Natural into place… 🙂
wow – thank you so much for all that info. your post just became my go to place for all my interfacing questions-
I think I’m printing this out and keeping it handy with my stash of interfacing. There was a sale at Joann’s awhile back and I just bought yards of nearly everything, even though I had no clue what to do with it once I got it home!
What a fantastic post!! Thank you so much! When I first started making bags this fall I found your last post on interfacing and have referred to it often. I LOVE the comparison chart at the beginning! I have both of Lisa Lam’s bag making books and she uses Vilene interfacings since she is from the UK and I sometimes wonder what the appropriate Pellon substitute would be. I have a question for you, have you heard of Decovil? It is made by Vilene and is a non woven interfacing that gives fabrics a “leather-like handle.” I wonder if we have anything like that here in the U.S. or if you were aware of a good source for it. Everything that I’ve read about it says that it’s an amazing product and easy to use so I’m dying to get my hands on some! I enjoy your blog so much and appreciate your insight on all your fun projects! I’m looking forward to Purse Palooza and have some fun bags waiting to be sewn!
I was wondering the same thing about Decovil and if it’s available in the US? [email protected]
Sorry, I forgot to include my email! [email protected] Thanks!
Great roundup on interfacing! Thank you so much for sharing.
Very helpful! I am pinning this and printing it out for reference.
What a great post! Thank you so much for sharing. I have learned a lot!
Great post, I have never been sure what the Pellon/Vilene equivalents were but now I have your handy chart I will no longer have to guess!
I could not imagine anyone saying they love interfacing…. I have been completely baffled & at the mercy of the expertise of whomever was working at the store. I think your post is perfect…. Enough info to make an informed decsion and not so much that it overwhelms. Plus what perfect timing…. I want to make some purses this summer & already have some fabric selected, so now off to the store for the RIGHT interfacing. Thanks!
This is really helpful! Thank you so much for the rundown 😀
Thank you for this post! I am going to share it with my followers. When I started sewing I was overwhelmed with interfacing and didn’t even know where to start…I wish this would have been available then. 🙂
Thank you sew much!
Since I can’t buy any pellon interfacing in Germany (at least I haven’t found a place that sells this yet) this conversation chart was well needed.
I have always been wondering and trying to figure out which vliene stuff to use and you helped me soooo much with this!
Thanks again.
Great post! Interfacing informant you are!
Currently, I find myself being constrained in my progress and pers due to the fact that I cant get the interfacing I need.
I was thinking of spray basting fabric like felt or canvas in place of interfacing. I am a beginner so I wouldn’t get expert work yet anyways. What differences between adhesive and fusible? Thank you!
My kinda woman! I’m with you, gotta have it all on hand! Thanks so much for putting it all in one place for easy access.
ねえ、超人気のグッチ 財布が入荷しました！！オフホワイト・ワインレッドの グッチ トートバッグが上品でエレガント！そんなに嬉しいです！！
この gucci バッグ、艷やかに光る表面にはコーティングが施され、キズや汚れがつきにくく実用性にも施されています！たくさん都会人のアイテムですよ！！これらのGucci 製品がどれもこれもすきだ！！ほんとに綺麗！！この機械を逃げさないだよ！！
Sara, Thanks for the post on interfacing! I can post your chart on my wall for reference. Judith, Texas
great post- so nice to have all this info in one place and i like the comparisons between products. this will certainly help me choose interfacings in the future
thanks so much for posting this sara – i’m in australia and always have problems finding the correct interfacing – my only question is what is the equivalent of Pellon 808 Craft Fuse that kim used in her lindsay tote bag ?
Thanks for the clearifiction…I am always struggling with interfacing so thus helps me figure out what’s right or not.
I have been sewing forever & this is the 1st time I’ve seen any discussion of interfacings. Very comprehensive & I really enjoyed it. Stood in a fabric store a few weeks back trying to figure out what to use for some bags as I was unhappy with what I had used before. I have a few English & Australian books, so am very happy with the equivalency chart. Thanks!
Thx for the info!
Thank you for your great help when it comes to interfacings. I never seem to get the effect that I am looking for in a bag. Now, maybe I can achieve that!
Thank you, again.
I’m sure I’ll be referencing this frequently.
Here’s my question–how do your store it? I’m trying to pick-up a yard here and there of some of the different types so I have it on hand and don’t have to run to the store. The pieces I’ve had in the past have gotten pretty wrinkled and jumbled, and I often lose the directions, etc. Pinterest has failed me so far! Thanks.
Wow thanks so much for explain this I am going to do bags for x-mas and I have never made one so to know this means a great deal.
I love your blog. It helped me a lot in my bag project. Thank u so much
Sara
Please help!! I am so thankful that I found this post 😀 I am making my very first diaper bag and in need of some interfacing advice. The pattern I have says: if a lighter weight fabric is utilized, it is necessary to add interfacing to the body, sides, base and handles. For this project I have 100% cotton quilting fabric. I’ve never made a bag before only quilts so I am a little lost as to which type of interfacing to use. I would like a sturdy bag that will last as I have two kiddos and many things to stuff inside said bag 🙂 but I don’t want to make this a really difficult to sew project to sew as it is my first time making something like this. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you have!!! I can email you the pattern if you’d like.
Thank You
Sara
Please help!! I am so thankful that I found this post 😀 I am making my very first diaper bag and in need of some interfacing advice. The pattern I have says: if a lighter weight fabric is utilized, it is necessary to add interfacing to the body, sides, base and handles. For this project I have 100% cotton quilting fabric. I’ve never made a bag before only quilts so I am a little lost as to which type of interfacing to use. I would like a sturdy bag that will last as I have two kiddos and many things to stuff inside said bag 🙂 but I don’t want to make this a really difficult to sew project to sew as it is my first time making something like this. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you have!!! I can email you the pattern if you’d like.
Thank You
[email protected]
What’s the best interfacing for cosmetic bags? I’ve used a thicker interfacing because I’m thinking of quilting diagonal lines across the bag, but it doesn’t seem stiff enough. Any suggestions for something different and maybe even a combo of interfacing? Thanks!
Interfacings have really confused me, and this post really straightens me out. But I’ve got a novice question: When cutting a heavier or stiffer interfacing smaller than the pattern piece, do you mean that the heavier/stiffer interfacing will not be caught in the seam, or just barely caught in the seam? Thanks in advance if you can clarify this for me! I do mostly quilting and precious little garment or home dec sewing.
Aloha Sara! Thank you for such a wonderful and detailed post about interfacings-it’s by far the best I’ve come across online! I make bags and I didn’t even know about Pellon 520 deco-fuse firm! I live in Hawaii and have very limited options for interfacings. I may have missed it, but have you found a wholesaler that sells 520 deco-fuse firm by the bolt? Mahalo♥.
I am curious as to what kind of interfacing to use to make an envelope clutch. Does the flap need to be a different type? I am using bottom weight jean fabric for my project.
Most helpful info to me on interfacing EVER. Thanks so much for taking the time to post it.
I just came across this post from Pinterest. This is amazing! I’ve used interfacing based on my own preferences, but it’s great to know the differences and some good uses for it. Thank you! I’m making a bag this weekend and this will help me better decide how I want my finished project to look.
Hi Sara,
Thank you for this wonderful post! It very thorough and super helpful! I’ve been thinking of making a few key fobs for some friends and I was wondering if you could help me find the right interfacing or interfacing combo for it. My original plan was to cut a 1 inch strip of thicker cotton batting (Craft select from quilter’s dream batting) and wrapping some lawn cotton fabric around it to create some body. But after reading your blog, I’m thinking of layering some interfacing to give it more structure and durability. My only concern is I would like it to still have movement and not be overly stiff as it would be worn around the wrist. Could you recommend a interfacing combo that might work well with this little project? Also, if possible, I was hoping to avoid wrinkles that might form on the underside when folded. For this purpose, do you think it would be better to make a 1 inch interfacing strip vs. fusing the layers to the fabric and then folding and pressing to make a 1 inch strip. Sorry if it sounded a little confusing. Please let me know if you would like me to email you any photos. Thanks!
Thank you for your post, the all interfacing world is so much clearer now! This is very detailed and I love all the little tips you give along with basic knowledge of what to use when.
I wanted to thank you, I just used your conversion of Pellon products for Vilene, I live in Greece and it is very hard to find Pellon and most directions call for Pellon materials, thank you for the conversion chart.
I found your explanation of the different stabilizers so informative! I’ve been making bags and totes for years, and have been looking for something other than the usual fusible fleece. No matter what i do, it’s not firm enough! I’m curious about one thing: You showed a conversion chart for Pellon, and called it Vilene. In the US, that’s used for free standing lace, and washes out! Is it a true stabilizer in other countries? Interesting how two different products can have the same name 🙂
is it just me or is 520 Deco-Fuse super crazy expensive? I’m not finding it for less that $22 per yard of 18″ wide. OMGosh 😮
Where do you buy it?
I, too went on a wild goose chase for Pellon Deco-Fuse. How about a heads-up on the 20.00 price tag and lack of availability.
Excellent article, good hear how others use interfacing 🙂 Jay @ Beach Purl x
Thank you so much! I have been tearing my hair out trying to buy the right interfacing here in Australia and I was just about to give up when I came upon your article. Thank you again.
Has anyone found comparable Pellon products to use in place of Inn-Control and Inn-Spire? I have several projects I want to do and these products are hard to find and expensive!
Oh, and THANK YOU for the wonderful article! One of my biggest frustrations was standing in front of the interfacing rack!
I am planning to make a toddler Dora backpack using fleece for the exterior; what interfacing would you recommend to give it shape but not make it stiff, so it’s still comfortable as a backpack… or will it work with just about any lighter weight interfacing since fleece has body of its own?
This will be my first bag-making attempt so any and all advice will be welcome.
Will you tell me where you buy the 520 Deco-Fuse and the SF101 Shape-Flex? Thank you!
Great your page
I have also same to you
Details here………
Handmade bags
crochet handbags
handmade baby clothes
crochet clothes
Thanks so much for this info! I have a question for you: I want to make an e-reader cover that looks like a book, and I was wondering what would be the best interfacing (or combo of interfacing) to use for this project? Basically, what I am going to do is print a vintage book cover onto fabric and use this to be the “front” of my “book” e-reader cover. Hope I am making sense! I would appreciate any tips you could have to offer. Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it!
Sincerely,
Alicia S.
Thank you for this. It is exactly in information I was looking for. I am from the UK so I am always looking for a substitute for Pellon interfacing….now I have your very useful table. Thank you.
It fits perfectly. I love the color and the way it fits. Glad I took the time and placed the order.
http://www.apparelnbags.com/harriton/m980-8-oz-quarter-zip-fleece-pullover.htm
THANK YOU for taking the time to put all of this info about interfacing in one place. I have made a few bags in the last year or so and none of them had the feel I wanted! Now I have a much better idea of what to use, when to use it and when to pair it with another interfacing. Going shopping right now! Thanks.
This is great! I have really wanted to try the Deco Fuse (520), but haven’t been able to find it anywhere!! I have been using the 71F and get that crinkly look for sure, plus it ‘cracks’ easily.
Is the 520 for sale to the general public???
Thanks so much for the reviews!
This is an amazingly informative article. Thank you so much for sharing this information. I do have a question that I’m certain you could answer. I recently purchased a pattern for making shoes. I love the idea of custom made flats because I have hard to fit feet. I’m also intrigued by the possibility of matching shoes with the clothing I sew. However, the pattern mentions vaguely that a stiff interfacing will make the shoes look crisper, but doesn’t give specifics. What would you recommend that would make the fabric crisp enough while still being able to bend over the toes smoothly?
What kind of pellon would work best for small makeup bags, coin pouches, and lanyards?
I have a question. I use the Pellon 937 for Totes and such, and I have scraps left over of various sizes. Some small and some ‘large’, but not the size of anything I’m making. Can you piece these pieces like you would regular batting, or just fuse them to the fabric ‘butted up’ close? How would it hold up during normal wear and tear? Thanks for your suggestions…..
Hi Sara, Thank you so much for this amazing info. I have just picked up 4 yards of “CRAFT fuse” from Pellon. There’s no number on the plastic liner. Do you have any info on this one? Strength? wrinkles?
HI Sara – I just wanted to reach out and give you a huge virtual hug and THANK YOU! for this awesome info on interfacing (especially in reference to bag use). I am a bag lover and have recently started sewing (got a machine for Christmas) and am gobbling up whatever info I can find online. I found the link to this post on Pinterest and I have to say it has been the most helpful so far in explaining some of the differences in interfacing. Thank you so much again and know that the wonderful info you put in this post is going to good use!
This is GREAT info, buy why do you have interfacing covering each boob – is it also good for covering nipplage? hahaha Getting a big kick out of that pic.
I am still really confused. I am looking for a heavyweight interfacing and when I search for such I keep getting directed to pellon hi loft fusible fleece. I would hate to buy a bolt of the stuff if it is not quite what I need! I am trying to make a purse
Sara, thank you so much for this wonderful post. I’m so new to this topic. I was feeling very discourage and I was thinking I made a big mistake making my husband getting a sewing machine for me until I found your post. I’m inspired and enthusiastic again. Thank you.
I am finding that the lining of my clutch bags always crease in places where the flap folds down. Is this something that is impossible to avoid? I have been using the one sided peltex on the exterior fabric and 101 on the lining. I am frustrated! Please advise!
Sara, I love this post! You are a lifesaver.
I’m trying to perfect toiletry bags. I’ve tried featherweight interfacing on my lining and fusible fleece / thermolam on the outer fabric, but the bags aren’t as sturdy as I’d like. I’m going to try the Deco Fuse and Shape Flex. I don’t know how to do piping yet but I’d like them to hold their shape on their own so I’m hoping this will do the trick.
What do you recommend I use on the liner fabric vs outer fabric so I can still box the corners and turn them easily?
Thank you!!!! Love this blog. <3 <3 <3
What is craft fuse 808? Please help!!
Thanks bunches!
Xo, Jessica
[email protected]
Sara, your clear information on different interfacings was very helpful to me as I experimented to find the best combination for my tailored felt handbags. Thank you!
What a great and informative article. I’ve just started making cosmetic bags, totes, and purses and now I know the proper interfacing for my projects. Thank you!
Love your advice! Thank you for the help, I thought I was the interfacing queen, LOL…
Thanks for this post! I’m just starting to make bags and purses, and the first patterns I used said absolutely nothing about interfacing, so I’m just “catching up” and learning new things every day! I wanted to ask about how you use the Shape Flex and Peltex together. When you fuse the Shape Flex, do you fuse the interfacing over the entire piece like you would without the Peltex, or just around the edges where the wrong side of the fabric is exposed? Thanks in advance 🙂
Hi Sara. I just started making bags. My first attempt was a duffel bag with linen and thermolam fusible on exterior and shape flex on lining. I found the pieces too thick to sew around. My second attempt was a tote with duck canvas and soft and sable for the exterior. It came out okay, but when boxing the corners it was almost too thick even with a walking foot. I like structured bags and mostly would be using quilters cotton. Any suggestions. I make myself crazy looking up different types of interfacing. Thank you
re: soft and stable. since it’s made of foam, I’m assuming there’s no ironing. Do you sew one piece to the exterior and the exterior? Or just the exterior and use something else for the interior? Beautiful bags, by the way. I do love how they have a soft structure.
This is a great teaching, what foams do you recommend in bags, bosal, by annie or is there another one you reccommend>?
Hi Sara, great post on interfacing!
Definitely useful for my bag making projects!
Just want to ask you what kind of interfacing is suitable for hand woven silk fabric?
I’m planning to make a clutch out of the fabric and I would a sturdier look.
Hope you can help…Thanks
Thank you ! Love.
this post helps so much, thank you for taking the time to explain all the different types of interfacings
This is THE post I keep going back to whenever I need to get interfacing. Your knowledge is fascinating, thank you for putting this together Sara!
I am trying to make an essential oil bag, so need something to not only hold the shape, but also act as a bit of padding to protect the bottles. What kind of interfacing would you suggest?
Hi, I found your site and am glad. Seeing details in beautiful hand bags peeks my interest to know who’s behind it all. I never ventured into new territory of quilting etc. for lack of knowledge in the area of stabilizers, heck, the stuff that gives a hard bag it’s stiffness. Could you recommend materials that would stiffen a (crocheted) hand bag, maybe materials layered between fabric? Thank you so much for your generosity of information. I’m new to your site, an look forward to all you have to offer. Dee
Great article, thank you. This is my main question, – what is the proper interfacing or product to form the flat bottom of a tote bag, that allows the bag to stand up on its own?
I enjoyed your information about the different type of interfacing. However, I need your opinion of the exact type of interfacing I can use. I am using regular cotton/polyster fabric to make backpacks. The backpacks with have a lining, but I want the the backpack to be sturdy; however, not stiff.
Hi. I’ve crocheted a purse and am looking to line it. I’ve googled and watched several helpful videos and then I landed here. This website is very helpful. I also wanted to use magnetic snaps on my purse and that’s how the subject of interfacing came about. I have never used this before and am wondering if it is practical to use fusible double sided interfacing to line the inside of my entire purse. If so what kind should I buy? If you are able to help, I figure some details about the project would be necessary. The yarn is caron, 4 ply worsted weight. The purse is 16 inches wide and 8 inched tall. I’m not looking for it to stand up alone and will hold belongings like a wallet, cell phone, etc. I thought a durable lining would be great to prevent the yarn from stretching when items are put into the purse. Can you help?
Is there anything we can use if we don’t have any of these things
Hi there,
I am making a large padded bag for moving sports equipment. Can you suggest what kind of batting/interfacing to use with silk or silk-like fabrics that will offer cushioning but still roll up small enough to not take up too much room in a suitcase when empty?
Thanks!
Can I use the 987F fusible fleece for a t-shirt quilt?
Wow, what a plethora of information! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to share your knowledge. A clutch I am making has “13-inch-wide ultra heavyweight interfacing” in the list of materials. After reading your site I concluded the choice falls on Peltex 70. You see, English is not my mother tongue and all these names are quite confusing to me. Thanks so much for your help!
Do you ever pre wash your sf101? I’d love a follow up post with some answers from some of the comments! Also, I’ve heard you can just iron on sf101 without a pressing cloth, have you ever tried??
Thanks!
merci pour votre tableau “Pellon / Vlieseline”. en France Pellon est difficile à trouver et, quand on en trouve, il est très cher. j’ai demandé une équivalence à mon magasin de tissus mais les vendeuses n’avaient pas de réponse. quand j’y retourne, je leur donne l’adresse de votre blog, car je n’étais pas la première à demander il y a beaucoup plus de patrons de sac aux Etats Unis qu’en Europe et je ne peux pas imaginer faire un sac sans interfaçage. merci mille fois
I love the third big bag where did you get the material. Thanks for clarifying interface
Great Post Lots of detailed information Thanks Michelle. You are such a busy Lady.
Does DecorBond come in different weight? My partern asks for “Decor Bond Fusible Madium Weight Interfacing” but the Decor Bond instructions say it is extra firm. This interfacing thing keeps me in a state of confusion. Thank you for all the information; it helps to clarify it.
Hi Sara, I’m planning a bag a client is requesting that we’re designing together. It will be a crossbody slouchy bag with a flap. She would like Harris Tweed for most of the body including the flap ( Cork on the bottom). What do you suggest as an interface for the Tweed that will still give it a relaxed but professional look. Thanks for your help with this.
Hi Kathryn! For a slouchy bag, perhaps Pellon Thermolam would be a good fit?
Thank you Sara, I’ve not used that one before so it looks like a great opportunity to give it a try. Should it be fused directly to the Tweed or should there be a layer of SF 101 between? Or, just baste directly on like I would with the Soft and Stable? Thanks!
I do have some Harris Tweed but I’ve not used it yet so I don’t have any experience with how well it will take a fuse – you can always test out a small square first.
Hi, Your blog is really helpful but as a novice Im confused about interfacing. I am try to make a messenger bag (Morton Quay from Charlies Aunt) the description says firm sew in craft weight interfacing and optional batting for the body of the bag and fusible interfacing for the flap. Do you have any suggestions which interfacing might be suitable? Im going round in circles and also got quite carried away with my bag making purchases so don’t want to purchase too many ‘experiments’!
Hi Laura, I’m a big fan of using foam interfacing (By Annie’s Soft and Stable) for the exterior of bags and Pellon Shape Flex for the lining. That being said, you may want to contact the designer of the pattern you purchased to see if she has a specific suggestion to her pattern. Hope this helps!
Hi! I love your post about interfacing etc, I would like to ask some questions. If I wan to make a wallet, I wan the wallet to be like soft kind, like a pillow type? What kind of interfacing should I use? Can you advise me? Thanks!
Hi Shirlene! I think fusible fleece or fusible Thermolam would be a great choice for that. Thank you!
Hi, Sara! I’ve been making bags for years and always use SF-101. I’ve recently purchased some Art Gallery Fabrics and no matter what I do, they always bubble! I have never had this problem with any other brand of fabric. I’ve tried high heat, high steam, low heat, no steam, pressing, just ironing, cooling for over an hour, pre-washing fabrics AND interfacing, and everything else I can think of. Nobody else seems to have this problem except for me and I’m terribly sad that I can’t use these gorgeous fabrics for bags. Do you have any advice or information regarding this? I can’t for the life of me figure out why I only have a problem with AGF. Thank you for any help you can give!
Hello Christine! The Art Gallery Fabrics have a different thread count than some others (which gives them a better drape and also nice for garments), this may be causing the problem you are having. It sounds like you have tried just about everything; I have not had a problem fusing interfacing to AGF fabrics in the past. Perhaps the interfacing is a defective piece?
I wish that were the case. I have tried several different types and brands of interfacing, as well as a fat quarter of my favorite sf-101 from a friend’s stash. It just won’t cooperate with me. Oh well! Thank you so much for the response! Luckily for me, there are a ton of other beautiful designs and designers to work with. 🙂
My question I am making a tote and want to use pellon 809 can I use or should I use pellon on my lining as well as the tote fabric ? This is what I have on hand . I recall using this a few years ago and had a hard time sewing and yes I used the pellon on the lining and on the fabric can you help me out it is a project for the local County Fair and I want a blue ribbon.
Hello Julia! Pellon Decor Bond is a firm interfacing (although not as firm as Peltex). I usually like using Pellon Shape Flex for lining fabric. It is possible to use the Decor Bond on the exterior fabric if that is the look you’re going for (personally I love using foam interfacing for exterior fabric!).
I am making purses with Pellon 809 I am looking for a woven fuseable interfacing that would be the same weight as 809 so I do not get bends on the seams. Am I going in the right direction? Thank you for your thoughts. Please feel free to go to my website to see what I am doing. I so appreciate your knowledge.
This is so helpfull, thank you .
I live in Denmark. No Pellon her. Only Vliselin. Now i can finde the right stuf . Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Have a nice day
Six years after your post: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!
I have a question about fusible foam stabilizer: I am planning to using it in a vinyl bag with a cotton lining (fusing to the cotton) and want to know how much foam seam allowance I should plan on trimming away……..
Hello Janet! I usually leave my foam the same size as my fabric pieces, however, if you prefer, since you are using a fusible foam, you can also cut the foam minus the seam allowance (so if the seam allowance in the pattern is 1/2″, you can cut the foam 1/2″ smaller on all sides if you prefer). Thank you!
Hi Sara. I realize this is an old article, but I just found you. 🙂 What is your opinion of using fleece with Heat Bond? I’ve used Heat Bond a few times in small bags glued to the outer fabric. I’m thinking it might work better on the lining. One bag did get a slight crinkly look.
I look forward to exploring more of your site! Thanks for the gift Oslo bag pattern.
~Lisa
Hi Lisa! Heat n Bond does have several products that are exact matches to some of the Pellon products (Shape Flex, fusible fleece, etc.). With some of the thicker interfacings, I prefer to use a sew-in product (foam, Peltex) to avoid the wrinkly look. Hope this helps!
Hi Sara, I’m using Thermolam plus on a calico cotton and the cotton is rippling! I peeled off the fleece, re-ironed the cotton and applied the fleece again; the ripples came back. Do you know what I’m doing wrong?
Hi Angela! Is it possible that the Thermolam wasn’t ironed long enough to strongly secure the adhesive on the interfacing to the fabric? I find that Thermolam takes the longest to fuse out of all the interfacings. I like to iron it with the Thermolam (adhesive side face up), followed by the fabric (right side facing up), then the pressing cloth and iron.
Thank you for this post! I never know which interfacing to use for the results I want. This was one of the most helpful pieces of information I’ve read. I’ve printed it, pinned it, downloaded it and bookmarked it! As a mostly newbie sewer I didn’t know which to use and couldn’t remember which one I used on successes and failures. Thank you for the explanations and descriptions.
HI Sara,
I am making a tote bag that calls for “fusible web” for the handles and body of the bag, and “wadding” for the outside and inside pockets. What weight would you use, and what is wadding? Thanks for your article, so informative! I have printed it for future reference. Happy Sewing-Kiki
Hello Kathy! You might want to check with the designer of the pattern you are working on – I usually choose specific interfacings for my patterns depending on the design of the bag (to take into consideration bulk, etc.).
Thank you Sara, great article, very handy! I wonder if this would be good for adult bibs?
Hi Darlene! Perhaps batting or fusible fleece, with a water-resistant fabric or laminate?
This is a great post! Have you ever found a chart that compares different products by different manufacturers? I have one by Pellon that describes some of their products.
Hi Jaye, I did make a chart like this for my Craftsy (now BluPrint) class on bag interfacing. Other manufacturers were included, such as Bosal and Heat n Bond.
I trying to make a very simply narrow boxed bottom basic classic book-bag style tote with webbing straps and was considering doing just one inside pocket to keep things simple and looking very minimalist and clean on the inside. I was considering patch pockets too, but I have like 6 of these bags to make so I am trying to figure out how not to get too crazy and make it take too long.
But I’m hung up on the fact that seems most people do not interface quilting fabric linings, but you interface the inside pockets that go on the lining or behind the lining. It just seems uneven to me? A thin drapey lining with then very stiff pockets? I find that even shapeflex makes things very stiff compared to without it. I feel like interfacing everything does add so much extra work especially when trying to make multiples of the bag to give as gifts. But then do the pockets have to be so stiff? I’m thinking to experiment with thinner interfacings that I guess nobody else is using, but I feel funny as a novice to stray from what all the pros are doing. I don’t know. I’m just weird that way? Well, one Etsy bag maker said she doesn’t line the quilting fabric lining or the pockets on it. But I’m figuring this pocket would be holding a cell phone and I find them to be quite heavy. But quilting fabric is quite sturdy. I’m really tossed on how to decide whether to do it her way and go without any interfacings saving time, or at least interface the zipper pocket, but with something much lighter that will let it retain more natural drape and flexibility than things like shapeflex. Maybe then I need a more knit fabric type interfacing? Also, on the thermolam, I thought for oven mitts and high heat, you want to use all cotton batting? Do you then layer cotton or any other heat protective layers over the thermolam? I’ve been itching to learn to do basic quilting so I could attempt something small and fun like an oven mitt. I saw Pellon sells this silver lining thermal protective stuff that they say can also go in winter gloves and oven mitts, but none of the pattern directions I’ve seen for oven mitts call for it. I get stuck on my projects not being able to get past these silly executive decisions that I get hung up on and then my productivity comes to a standstill.
Hi Jennifer! Speaking for myself personally, I like using Pellon Shape Flex for my lining fabric and usually do not use interfacing for zippered pockets (although you certainly could – I think the great thing about sewing is that you can take a project and adapt it to your needs and likes!). For oven mitts, a good idea would be to use insulated fleece (Insul-Bright, Insul-Fleece, etc.) because it reflects the heat toward or away from something (it can also be used in lunch bags to keep the head inside, for an oven mitt you want to direct the heat away from the hand). You could easily add Pellon Insul-Fleece into the oven mitt pattern you are working on.
I’m using microsuede which can’t be ironed. If I use a sew-in interfacing do I have to add extra stitching to hold it in place? My largest pattern piece is about 8″ square.
Hi Rose! You can machine baste your fabric to the interfacing using 1/8″ seam allowance. I like lengthening my stitch length to 4mm for this machine basting. Thank you!
Thank you for such a comprehensive overview of interfacings! I am new to the world of constructing bags and such from fabric although I have quilted for over 30 years. As a beginner, it is very helpful to have this information and I have bookmarked it for future use!
I’m a novice really when it comes to sewing. I’ve recently started a project making short utility apron for gardening and teachers. I became very frustrated with the whole iron on process sing Pellon interfacing to adhere 2 fabrics together. Seems it didn’t really want to stick or when I attempt to peel off it’s still stuck to paper. Seemed it took an excessive amount of time to get it right. I read somewhere to try the plush version which I’m assuming is the thermalon or similar. Naturally, while perusing these bolted items at Walmart unable to find an employee to measure and cut – became distracted by the spray adhesive. For something such as utility apron, is there any reason why this idea of using spray adhesive is not a good choice? Please advise
I am so happy to have found your website and this extremely helpful write up on interfacings for bags. I have some Lazy Girl Stiff Stuff but find it a bit thick. Have you used Stiff Stuff and if so, how do you like it compared to the Deco Fuse or Pellon 70? Thank you for your help. Looking forward to exploring your website!
Hello Kim! In my opinion, Stiff Stuff is very similar to Pellon Peltex #70. Thank you!
I found your Craftsy class on interfacing (and LOVED it!), so I hunted down your blog. I’ve already bookmarked this post!
I have a question about substitutions. I’m making the Ultimate Carry-All Bag by Natalie Quiltessa which calls for Pellon 71F interfacing. On my first attempt, the bag ended up with those crinkles you mentioned in your class. I’m about to make this bag again (three of them!) and want it to go well. I need to keep my seams from being too thick, so I don’t think I could use a sew-in, but I *could* do the sandwich you mentioned in your class. Is the FlexFoam heavy enough to replace the Pellon 71F by itself? What would your preferred substitution be for Pellon 71F interfacing?
Hello Anne! I would recommend the method that I demonstrated in this video: https://sewsweetness.com/2021/09/video-how-to-use-sew-in-peltex.html I’m not familiar with that pattern, but I usually don’t replace Peltex with foam interfacing, since they are structurally different. Thank you!
Thank you *so much* for your reply! I will look into the sew-in Peltex option!